Colombia · Boundary Line Estate Spicy BourbonCoffee Bean Intro:
Qianjie Coffee: Colombian Boundary Line · Spicy Bourbon Coffee Beans Estate: Boundary Line Estate Elevation: 1750~1900 meters Variety: Spicy Bourbon (Bourbon Aji) Flavors: Pepper, mint, white chamomile, peach, lime, honey
Earlier this month, the 2024 World Barista Championship (WBC) concluded successfully, with the championship title awarded to Mikael Jasin from Indonesia, Asia. The single-origin coffee he used in the finals quickly gained popularity, and one variety called "Aji" instantly caught the attention of many coffee enthusiasts.
To find out whether the famously hyped Aji pepper coffee actually has a "peppery" taste, Qianjie also seized the opportunity to purchase a small batch for a taste test. Sourced from Colombia’s Boundary Line Estate and processed using the washed method. Let’s first explore what kind of variety this "pepper" really is, and then reveal whether it’s actually spicy or not! Why is it called "pepper"?
Aji pepper, also known as Spicy Bourbon (Aji Bourbon), where "Ají" means "red pepper" in Spanish, named for its unique spicy flavor.
Qianjie found through research that Aji pepper first appeared on the winning bean list of the 2021 Colombia Cup of Excellence (COE), ranking sixth in the washed category with a high score of 89.32. It was grown by the Lasso family from La Guaca (Pitalito) in Huila Province, with the farm manager named Jose (Jose Herman Salazar). Around the end of the last century, Jose obtained the seeds of this spicy coffee from another estate located in Pitalito, Huila Province. During a harvest, he accidentally discovered that the ripe cherries from these trees had a strong red pepper aroma. So the farm owner decided to separate and cultivate these seeds. Since the farm mainly grew pink bourbon at the time, Jose subconsciously assumed it was a variant of bourbon, thus naming it: Spicy Bourbon (Ají Bourbon).
Is Spicy Bourbon a type of bourbon?
In the 2021 COE competition, judges found that the coffee provided by Jose was an unknown variety. Subsequent genetic testing and comparison with thousands of samples from CATIE (a local institution specializing in coffee DNA testing) confirmed that this variety had not been registered anywhere in the world, but it was certainly not bourbon. It might be an Ethiopian landrace variety. Eventually, the COE official website removed the word "bourbon," leaving only the term "Aji."
It wasn’t until March 2022 that the chromosome analysis report of the "Aji" coffee was finally released, and the results surprised everyone—it turned out to be a hybrid of Congo Gesha and an Ethiopian landrace Gesha.
Han Huai Zong mentioned in his book "The Fourth Wave of Specialty Coffee": 'The chromosome sequence of Aji is quite unique. It shares many similarities with the Congo Gesha in the CATIE database, but the differences between Aji and Congo Gesha can be found in the Ethiopian Gesha. Therefore, it is very likely that Aji is a hybrid of Congo Gesha and Ethiopian Gesha.'
Also, because the identification results included two Gesha genes, people gave it an additional nickname: 'Spicy Gesha.' But just like Pink Bourbon, even though the genetic sequence clearly indicates it’s not a bourbon variety, the term "Ají Bourbon" has already spread among growers and consumers. Therefore, up to now, this variety is still sold under the old name "Spicy Bourbon."
So, is this "spicy coffee" actually spicy?
For this spicy coffee, the initial reactions from the farmers were: when you crush the coffee beans, it feels like chopping red peppers—the nose and eyes get itchy. When tasting the coffee, this bean exhibits flavors reminiscent of chili powder, red pepper, and black pepper. (when you squeeze a grain, you have the sensation of the itching that the chili gives in the eye and nose and in the cup it gives note of paprika, chili and pepper.)
Just reading these descriptions, Qianjie could almost physically feel the spiciness. What if it doesn’t suit the constitution of people from Guangdong...
After getting our hands on this Aji spicy coffee, considering its rich fruity acidity, Qianjie chose a medium-light roast profile to preserve more of its lighter aromatic compounds while still retaining the nutty and spicy notes from caramelization.
Aji Spicy cupping aromas: Before grinding, Qianjie detected a hint of green pepper from the bean surface. Once ground, the aromas of pepper and cloves hit the nose directly, followed by the fragrances of white chamomile and lavender, giving an overall fresh and unique profile. As hot water is poured in, the coffee starts to release notes of lime, almond, and herbs.
Tasting flavors: Upon entering the mouth, the coffee presents mint, lemongrass, and lemon flavors with bright acidity and a smooth mouthfeel. As the temperature slightly drops, the juicy sensation of peach becomes prominent, stimulating saliva production. After swallowing, a maple-like sweetness lingers. As the coffee cools further, the experience shifts back to spice-driven notes, mainly pepper and cinnamon, with a slight anise finish. Although we didn’t perceive the "spiciness" described by the estate owners, the flavor experience of Aji Spicy is indeed quite magical and leaves a deep impression.
Finally, regarding the flavor experience of Aji Spicy coffee, since Qianjie has no plans to sell it as a standalone product, we only purchased a small amount this time for tasting at the store—available until sold out. Those who want to try it should hurry over!
