Qianjie Coffee: Yunnan small-grain coffee beans from China

Origin: Yunnan · Baoshan

Elevation: 1200m

Processing method: Washed

Variety: Catimor

Flavor: Melon, sweet potato, plum acidity, black tea-like

How did the Yunnan small-grain Catimor variety come about?

In 1904, the first batch of coffee trees in China was introduced by a French missionary and planted in Zhukula Village, Binchuan County, Yunnan, marking the beginning of coffee cultivation in the country. After the founding of the People’s Republic of China, in 1952, researchers from the Yunnan Academy of Agricultural Sciences began large-scale planting in places like Ludian, Baoshan. To this day, China’s large-scale coffee cultivation history spans over sixty years.

In order to find a high-yield, disease-resistant variety more suitable for Yunnan, the Dehong Tropical Agricultural Science Research Institute in Yunnan started coffee introduction efforts in 1986. In 1988, Nestlé established a joint venture in Yunnan, China, continuously expanding coffee cultivation areas. That same year, the new Catimor variety was introduced from Portugal’s leaf rust research center for seedling cultivation and trial planting began in Pu’er, Yunnan, in 1990. Due to its strong disease resistance and high yield, it was widely promoted, and today the vast majority of coffee grown in Yunnan is the Catimor variety.

Characteristics of the Catimor variety

If global coffee is categorized broadly, it mainly falls into two types: Arabica and Robusta. Arabica beans, leaves, and overall shape are smaller than Robusta, hence "small-grain coffee" also refers to Arabica beans. In the early stages of coffee cultivation in Yunnan, ancient Arabica varieties such as Typica and Bourbon were planted. In recent years, to increase yield, Yunnan has largely switched to planting Catimor, with other varieties accounting for only a minority. Therefore, Yunnan small-grain also refers to Catimor.

Catimor (catimor) is a hybrid of the Timor variety (belonging to Robusta) and Caturra (a mutation of Bourbon). It is a natural cross between Arabica and Robusta, meaning Catimor has 25% Robusta heritage. The Catimor tree is relatively short, compact, with many branches, allowing for dense planting without the need for shade and still thriving vigorously. It has very strong resistance to leaf rust and also a certain tolerance to common coffee berry diseases, which helps improve fruit set rates. Its fruits also mature faster than other varieties, naturally leading to higher yields.

Due to Catimor’s partial Robusta genetics, it also inherits some of Robusta’s flavor drawbacks. When planted at low elevations, the coffee can taste bitter, and improper processing may result in harsh astringency and moldy flavors. When grown at higher altitudes, such as 1200m, the aroma is less rich, often not competing with pure Arabica varieties like Caturra or Catuai in competitions.

Cultivation of Yunnan Catimor

Yunnan Catimor is mainly grown in the western and southern regions, including Pu’er, Baoshan, Dehong, and Lincang, with Baoshan small-grain coffee being the earliest to gain fame.

As one of the earliest regions to begin large-scale coffee cultivation in China, Baoshan started extensive coffee planting in the mid-1950s. The coffee trees are primarily planted in the Nu River Valley area around Ludian, mostly on undulating sloped terrain, with planting elevations typically between 800-1800m. The area enjoys abundant sunlight and rainfall, and the large diurnal temperature variations at high altitudes allow the coffee to absorb sunlight during the day and store nutrients at night.

Baoshan has an average annual temperature of 21.5°C, with virtually no frost, making it a prime small-grain coffee origin recognized by many coffee farmers. Yunnan’s subtropical monsoon climate brings distinct dry and wet seasons. Summers are rainy, providing ample water for the coffee trees, and after the first half-year flowering season, the second half-year coffee fruit harvest season begins. The higher the elevation, the later the maturation period. For example, the Baoshan Catimor sourced by Qianjie is planted at 1200m and is generally harvested from October to November each year.

Flavor characteristics of Catimor

Due to the long rainy season and unstable sunlight, most Yunnan coffee beans are processed using traditional washed methods. Locals remove the coffee fruit’s skin, then ferment it in clean water tanks. The acidic substances produced during fermentation break down the mucilage layer outside the green beans. This can be easily washed off by manual brushing, and the moist parchment beans are then spread out to dry in the field until the moisture content meets standards for storage.

Qianjie believes that coffee flavor is influenced not only by variety and terroir but also largely determined by the green bean processing method. Typically, when trying a coffee, Qianjie starts with the washed process because it feels it better highlights the bean’s inherent flavor, while natural processing adds fruit fermentation notes on top of washed. Therefore, Qianjie selected Baoshan’s washed Catimor as the representative everyday bean for the Yunnan origin, hoping everyone can experience the flavor characteristics of Yunnan small-grain at the lowest price. Additionally, the 100g small package helps avoid waste if you can’t finish it.

Qianjie believes Yunnan coffee does not emphasize prominent acidity in its flavor profile but rather balanced taste. Therefore, Qianjie’s roasters choose medium roast for Yunnan everyday beans, aiming to preserve some gentle acidity while highlighting the sweetness of nuts.